Skip to content
You are here: Home arrow Wine Reviews arrow Latest Review Feature Article
DRY ROSÉ REVIEWS: Is it summertime yet? PDF Print E-mail

Forth-Five North rosé, 90 pointsSummertime... and the sippin' is easy. No wine goes with warm weather like a bright, fruity glass of chilled Rosé.

Rosés -- in various hues of pink and orange -- are riding a surge of popularity after two decades in the wilderness, following a consumer backlash against blush wines like the unfortunately-named White Zinfandel. Sales flew up 22% in 2008, while overall wine consumption rose just 5%.

The assortment of Michigan Rosé is also growing, the overwhelming majority made from Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir grapes.

For these reviews, MichWine's tasting panel sampled 11 different Michigan Rosés. Some were clearly better than others, but we could enjoy a glass of any of them on a hot summer day. Part of the attraction: a variety of styles and sweetness make it easy to find one you like, or to accompany the food you plan to serve.

Our top three wines perfectly illustrate the point. They begin with two grapes from three different growing regions, and represent three completely different styles of wine.

The top-scoring wine, 2008 Forty-Five North Pinot Noir Rosé (90 points), is noticeably off-dry, bursting with bright fruit flavors set against a stiff acid backbone. Right behind (89 points) are 2008 Tabor Hill Cabernet Franc Rosé, bone dry and food-friendly, and 2008 2 Lads Cabernet Franc Rosé, slighly off-dry, nearly red in color and deep in flavor.

IN THE PINK:  REVIEWS OF TEN ROSÉS
        REVIEW NOTES by Chris Kassel and the MichWine Tasters
        ROSÉ ADORES FOOD -- AND THE FEELING IS MUTUAL!
                 by Master Sommelier Claudia Tyagi
        FAQ about MichWine's review procedures and tasting panel

We noticed one oddity. Although they use the same grape varieties, several southern winemakers bestow a proprietary name on their dry Rosé: Cabaret or Riviera or Sassy. Northern winemakers seem to stick to the varietal name: Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir. 

John Burtka and Shawn Walters
Winemakers John Burtka of Cherry Creek and Shawn Walters of Forty-Five North swap tastes of their rosés

Rosé lets a winemaker hedge against the vagaries of Michigan's climate, which offers an opportunity to make first-class red wine from grapes like Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir in some years, but good rosé nearly every vintage.

Long, warm summer? Great year for red. Cooler summer, less ripe grapes? Let's think about making Rosé.

Michigan winemakers can get another advantage when they make Rosé. By "bleeding off" some juice destined for Rosé from the red grape skins before the color and tannins are fully extracted -- a techniue called saignée -- winemakers can leave the skins in the remaining juice that's destined for red wine. The resulting red wine, with a higher proportion of skin to juice, can picks up a deeper color and more substance from less concentrated grapes.

For more on the techniques and types of Rosé around the globe, take a look at this article from the LA Times.

As always, we suggest you read Chris Kassel's reviews and Claudia Tyagi's food pairing suggestions, not just look at the scores. That's especially the case with wine like Rosé, whose style varies so greatly from one winery to the next.

Also tasted, but not reviewed:
2008 Chateau Chantal Pinot Noir Rosé  (not for commercial release)

Trackback(0)

TrackBack URI for this entry

Comments (2)


Show/Hide comments
...
Joel: As you probably know, I am a huge fan of dry Rose. I feel that 2008 was a great vintage for Rose. What is better on a nice spring or summer day then a chilled glass of Rose? I am going to Sonoma County next week. I plan on bringing a few Michigan Rose wines with me to trade with other winemakers. I know a few California winemakers who are really interested in what we are doing here in Michigan.
Bill MacDonald , June 03, 2009
...
Bill, I can't agree more. Our climate provides an advantage to certain wines -- and the more focus we place on them, the better.

It's no accident that all the top-scoring Rosés came from 2008; the cooler vintage gave wines like 45 North's a kick-butt acidity to play off, which doesn't happen in California. This wine beat out about 50 left coast Rosés to take the trophy at the Pacific Rim Competition.

You know I've tasted your Pinot Meunier Rosé from Old Mission, which isn't shabby, either... Have fun in CA.
Joel Goldberg , June 03, 2009 | url

Write comment

smaller | bigger
security image
Write the displayed characters

busy
 
< Prev   Next >

Joel Goldberg's Blog

New posts every Tuesday, sometimes more or less often

WEATHER FLIP-FLOP, 2010

So far, Michigan's warm, early-maturing 2010 vintage looks like a winner for red wines -- while California is suffering one of its coolest summers in years.

A "WHAT-IF?" FANTASY

Two high-profile politicians who carried water for Michigan's wine wholesaler cartel lost big in the primary for Governor. So let's take a trip into fantasyland, where politicians do what's good for the state, rather than their contributors.

KNOW A GOOD BYO? PLEASE SHUT UP!

Michigan's consumer-unfriendly laws make most BYO illegal. So publicizing places that quietly allow it doesn't necessarily do them any favors.

Robert Hodgson
Wine competitions may hate the name Robert Hodgson. He's putting numbers to longtime concerns about judging quality and consistency.

GUESS WHO CRASHED THE PARTY?

Cellar reduction partyYes, thank you, I believe I WILL try some Michigan Cabernet Franc next to that '86 Cheval Blanc

OLD MISSION'S CAPE CONNECTION

Coenraad Stassen's license plate

Mere coincidence that Old Mission's two South African-trained winemakers grabbed all the awards at the Cab Franc Challenge? Maybe not...

WINE WRITING'S ETHICAL THICKET

Why does wine writing tolerate murky ethics and apparent conflicts of interest that wouldn't be acceptable in other areas of journalism? The new AnnArbor.com is the latest media outlet to ignore such concerns.

HAS TERRY STINGLEY FOUND MICHIGAN'S "IDENTITY WINE"?

Terry Stingley

Kalamazoo retailer Stingley believes Cab Franc has the chops to become our state's flagship. And he's organizing a one-of-a-kind event to help make it happen.

MichWine Classics

Larry Mawby Ode to the Leelanau Winemaking pioneer Larry Mawby pens a poem about his home

Jim LesterThe South Will Rise! Wyncroft's Jim Lester likes his region's future

Login / Register






Lost Password?
No account yet? Register