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"No, thanks" to judging?

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High-profile New York wine writers Lenn Thompson and Evan Dawson won't judge at future wine competitions, and urge other journalists to follow suit.

The complaints are valid -- but their prescription doesn't work for states like Michigan.

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2X Trophy Winner!

Fenn Valley "42" Ice Wine

"The Ice Wine Everyone Can Afford"

Pssssst! Hey, buddy, wanna buy a genuine trophy-winning Michigan ice wine for just $15? Doug Welsch of Fenn Valley is betting 900 cases on a one-time-only deal he figures you can't resist...

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LA TIMES: Midwest wines try to improve "low-quality" reputation PDF Print E-mail

The LA Times picked up a feature article, originally published in the Chicago Tribune, but slapped it with an unfortunate headline. The article itself focuses on Michigan winemakers trying to upgrade their image, with a lead photo of Wally Maurer from Domaine Berrien Cellars, and quotes Maurer, Tony Peterson of Contessa Wine Cellars, and Doug Welsch of Fenn Valley, along with a shout-out to Hickory Creek, whose wine features on the list of Shaw's Crab House in Chicago.

The money quote: "My mission," Maurer said, "is to make Michigan famous."

Here's a LINK TO THE FULL ARTICLE.

[Revised to reflect the original source for the article.]

 
A Michigan Canticle PDF Print E-mail

[Editor's Note: Dan Berger, of Santa Rosa, California, is one of America's leading independent wine journalists. Head of California's Riverside International Wine Competiton and prime mover behind the Riesling Sweetness scale, he publishes the weekly Vintage Experiences newsletter.

He wrote this piece for that newsletter after judging at the Michigan Wine Competition on August 3. It's a must-read for anyone who wants to understand how a well-informed, objective outsider views Michigan wines and their position in the larger wine world. Reprinted by permission; the original can be viewed here.]

by Dan Berger

Dan BergerLANSING, Mich.--A lot can go through your mind when you’re judging regional wines, as I did this past Monday here. 

The Michigan Wine and Spirits competition has been staged for decades, and only in the last few years has the event displayed the sort of quality about which the wine makers here have been crowing for decades. 

The early praise wasn’t unwarranted. There were flashes of brilliance as long ago as the late ’90s, when I first visited. Former colleague and long-time friend Christopher Cook exposed me to Michigan’s vinous hospitality back then and I saw huge potential.

Problem was that almost none of this was available to the American public. Bottles could all have been labeled “Sold in Michigan only,” a horrid situation that exists to this day, exacerbated by the state’s antediluvian shipping regulations. Even if you know about the superb Rieslings, Pinot Gris and other wines, you’d have to travel to Michigan to get them.

Even then, finding them here is well nigh impossible. Michiganders routinely disparage Michigan wine.

 
Black Star Farms Rocks the House at 2010 Wine Competition PDF Print E-mail
Trophy Winners
Trophy winners at 2010 Michigan Wine Competition; see article for the full list.

by Joel Goldberg

Black Star Farms walked away the big winner, with three Best of Class trophies and a total of seven gold and double gold medals, at the 2010 Michigan Wine Competition, held at MSU's Kellogg Center on Tuesday, August 3.

The Leelanau Peninsula's "Agricultural Destination" and its satellite winery on Old Mission Peninsula won Best Sparkling Wine for its 2008 Sparkling Wine, Best Dry White for the 2009 Arcturos Pinot Gris, and Best Semi-Dry White for the 2009 Arcturos Riesling. 

Judges handed out eight double gold medals and 43 golds among the record 399 entries in the 33rd annual version of the event.

The public will get its first crack to sample the trophy and gold medal winners at the Gold Medal Reception on Thursday, August 5, from 5 to 8 PM. Reservations can be made with the Kellogg Center by phone at 517.432.4000.

Among other Competition highlights:

  • The number of gold and double gold medals remained steady from 2009, but the total hardware count dropped precipitously, from 267 (67% of entries) last year to 220 (55%) this year.
  • Leelanau Peninsula came up big again; LP-based wineries took five of the nine trophies
  • Fenn Valley's 2008 "42" Ice Wine took double gold and Best Dessert trophy for a second straight year. While unusual, nothing prohibits wineries from entering the same wine more than once. They're trophy-eligible as long as 50 cases remain available for sale. Fenn Valley produced an eye-popping 900 cases of "42".
  • After two years in which judges declined to award a Best Sparkling trophy, Black Star's 2008 turned the trick this year, with little dissent.
  • Ditto for Best Semi-Dry Red: Lawton Ridge's "AZO" (named for Kalamazoo's airport code).
  • For the third straight year, a vintage-2007 red from the north took the Best Dry Red trophy -- Bowers Harbor's "Erica Vineyard" Cab Franc.
  • For the second year, 45 North took the Best Rosé trophy, for its renamed 2009 Blanc de Pinot Noir. It's now won both years the trophy has been awarded.
  • Three new wineries struck gold in their first competition: Pioneer Wine Trail's Sleeping Bear Winery came up big with one double gold and three golds, Leelanau's French Valley Vineyards mined gold with 2008 Chardonnay, while Lake Michigan Shore's Old Shore Vineyards did the same for its 2009 Pinot Gris -- the only wine it's released to date.

2010 TROPHY WINNERS

SPARKLING: 2008 Black Star Farms Sparkling
DRY WHITE: 2009 Black Star Farms Pinot Gris
SEMI-DRY WHITE: 2009 Black Star Farms Arcturos Riesling
ROSÉ
: 2009 45 North Blanc de Pinot Noir (2nd consecutive vintage winner)
DRY RED: 2007 Bowers Harbor "Erica Vineyard" Cabernet Franc
SEMI-DRY RED: NV Lawton Ridge "AZO" Chancellor / Chambourcin
DESSERT: 2008 "42" Ice Wine, Fenn Valley (2nd year winner for the same wine)
FRUIT: Uncle John's Franc-N-Cherry
JUDGES MERIT AWARD: 2009 Chateau Fontaine Woodland White (Auxerrois)

Read, download or print the full medal-winner list here.

MichWine's Joel Goldberg judged at the competition -- read his live-blog entries here.

 
Ann Arbor's Vinology changes, perseveres in a tough market PDF Print E-mail

by Debra Jett

The Jonna family aren't quitters. Many would say that the extended family's businesses (Merchant's Fine Wines, Plum Market, Vino Wine Bars and the former Merchant of Vino) easily qualify them as southeast Michigan's first family of wine.

John Jonna of Vinology
John Jonna discusses Vinology's recent changes at the wine bar's sidewalk cafe

Ann Arbor's Vinology is one of two wine bars owned by the dynamic father-daughter duo of John and Kristin Jonna. (The other, Vinotecca, is located in Royal Oak.)

So when Vinology wasn't working right, instead of throwing in the towel they went back to the drawing board. They felt committed to their concept and were willing to keep trying different models until they got it right.

Recently departed: the former wine list, menu and executive chef. And with John Jonna playing master of ceremonies, Vinology invited in the media to talk about their new chef, sample their summer menu, and preview their wine offerings.

 
Bernie Rink of Boskydel: Souvenirs from Leelanau's past PDF Print E-mail

Editor's note: Kalamazoo's Fred McTaggart originally wrote this appreciation of Leelanau Peninsula winemaker Bernie Rink for his blog, Artisan Wine on a Budget. I thought it deserved a wider audience. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kegerreis, Michigan Vine   -- JG

by Fred McTaggart

Little has changed since I last visited the Boskydel Vineyards tasting room. But that was 1984, and much has changed in Leelanau winemaking over the intervening 25 years.

Bernie Rink
Boskydel's Bernie Rink: Making Leelanau wine since 1975
Compared to the fancy, tourist-centered wineries just a few miles away, Boskydel comes across as quaint and rustic. It's a small room on the lower level of a white barn with a cement floor. A crude wooden counter holds eight bottles, open for tasting.

Owner and winemaker Bernie Rink, 83, is a bit stooped these days, and fights a tremor when he pours your samples. He is affectionately known as the "Wine Nazi" (after Seinfeld's "Soup Nazi") because he allows no nonsense on the premises. When more than eight people arrive in his tiny tasting room, he starts to shoo them away.

 

Follow MichWine on Twitter Need to Know

Bill welsch dies

The founder of southwest Michigan's Fenn Valley Vineyards died on August 6 at the age of 83. He purchased the land for Fenn Valley in 1973 and built the winery three years later.


OHIO FERTILIZES vineyardS -- WITH CASH

The state of Ohio's Vineyard Expansion Assistance Program has awarded grants to 19 growers and wineries to increase their wine grape acreage, according to Wines & Vines.


Coming soon: $1 merlot?

Take a back seat, Three Buck Chuck. Dollar store goliath Dollar General says it's currently test-marketing wine at an undisclosed number of its 9000 stores in 35 states.


100-POINt bashERS: A LIBERAL PLOT

Slightly tongue-in-cheek conspiracy theory du jour by writer W. Blake Gray: opponents of the 100-point ratings meritocracy are liberal elitists who want you to drink what they like


TO THE MOON, NORTON

Just out: Todd Kliman's book on the birth, decline and recent resurgence of the offbeat American hybrid grape, Norton. Developed in Virginia, it's now Missouri's state grape.


MOVING TO NAPA?

For a cool $25 million, you could be living on the late Robert Mondavi's estate, near Yountville. The 56-acre  property just put up a "For Sale" sign, says the Wall Street Journal. Sorry, no vineyards included.


WHISKEY IN YOUR TANK

Corn ethanol is so last year. According to Decanter, the latest biofuel comes from by-products of whiskey distillation, developed by scientists in -- where else? -- Scotland.


DOES RED WINE BOOST FEMALE SEX DRIVE?

Researchers in -- where else? -- Florence, Italy say women who drink red wine report higher sex drive than drinkers of other alcoholic beverages; teetotalers rank last


PA TO TEST SELF-SERVE WINE KIOSKS

Pennsylvania's state-run wine stores wlll test self-serve wine kiosks in 100 supermarkets -- but customers must first insert a drivers license and blow into a breathalyzer


HEALDS GET CHAMPAGNE AWARD

Michigan wine writers Ray & Eleanor Heald win the first-ever "Champagne Award" for their support of "place of orign" wine labels


KEEP YOUR CANOPY MANAGED!

MSU Extension guy Duke Elsner explains an arcane branch of wine-related knowledge: how to train and prune vines to grow the best grapes


SCOTT HARVEY ON THE RIESLING SCALE

Cal Riesling guru (and MI wine fan) Scott Harvey does a good job explaining the Riesling sweetness scale, coming soon to a bottle near you


Links to wine news from Michigan and elsewhere. Use the Contact Fom to let us know what should be here.

MichWine Poll

My favorite Michigan red wines are made from...
 

Joel Goldberg's Blog

New posts every Tuesday, sometimes more or less often

WEATHER FLIP-FLOP, 2010

So far, Michigan's warm, early-maturing 2010 vintage looks like a winner for red wines -- while California is suffering one of its coolest summers in years.

A "WHAT-IF?" FANTASY

Two high-profile politicians who carried water for Michigan's wine wholesaler cartel lost big in the primary for Governor. So let's take a trip into fantasyland, where politicians do what's good for the state, rather than their contributors.

KNOW A GOOD BYO? PLEASE SHUT UP!

Michigan's consumer-unfriendly laws make most BYO illegal. So publicizing places that quietly allow it doesn't necessarily do them any favors.

Robert Hodgson
Wine competitions may hate the name Robert Hodgson. He's putting numbers to longtime concerns about judging quality and consistency.

GUESS WHO CRASHED THE PARTY?

Cellar reduction partyYes, thank you, I believe I WILL try some Michigan Cabernet Franc next to that '86 Cheval Blanc

OLD MISSION'S CAPE CONNECTION

Coenraad Stassen's license plate

Mere coincidence that Old Mission's two South African-trained winemakers grabbed all the awards at the Cab Franc Challenge? Maybe not...

WINE WRITING'S ETHICAL THICKET

Why does wine writing tolerate murky ethics and apparent conflicts of interest that wouldn't be acceptable in other areas of journalism? The new AnnArbor.com is the latest media outlet to ignore such concerns.

HAS TERRY STINGLEY FOUND MICHIGAN'S "IDENTITY WINE"?

Terry Stingley

Kalamazoo retailer Stingley believes Cab Franc has the chops to become our state's flagship. And he's organizing a one-of-a-kind event to help make it happen.

MichWine Classics

Larry Mawby Ode to the Leelanau Winemaking pioneer Larry Mawby pens a poem about his home

Jim LesterThe South Will Rise! Wyncroft's Jim Lester likes his region's future

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